In the middle of winter, we have arrived at a new year. Given the weather conditions at this time, for those who only think about mild temperatures and the beautiful beaches that fill our entire coast, it may not be obvious, but winter in our country is also rich in customs, traditions and emerging beauty.
Do not believe? So here are some suggestions:
[Note in your diary: February 11th, 12th and 13th]
Carnival or "Entrudo" - which this year is celebrated on February 13th - is associated with a period of celebration and much revelry. And Portugal is no exception to this rule, with several localities and communities celebrating it in an unforgettable way. Today I suggest and present to you a carnival celebration, with very particular features, which stands out as “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”, classified as such by Unesco: the Podence Carnival.
The Podence Carnival, also known as “Entrudo Chocalheiro”, is a social practice originally related to the celebration of the end of Winter and the beginning of Spring. For three days - from Sunday to Carnival Tuesday - in the small village of Podence, in the municipality of Macedo de Cavaleiros, Bragança district, "Trás-os-Montes" region ("trás-os-montes" means "beyond the montains"), “masked” characters go out through the streets, jumping and running, dressed in suits filled with colored wool fringes, tin or leather masks on their faces and rattles around their waists: the "Caretos".
The Podence Careto is today known for its “performative” behavior translated into persecution and “rattles”, a symbolic act of which women are the main target, which refers to a remote origin and a possible connection to ancient agrarian and fertility rituals.
Nowadays, young people continue the practice they inherited from their parents and grandparents, and it is also common, in the current context, for young girls to participate.
It is worth a trip to this small village of Trás-os-Montes, at this time of year (but not only), to experience the joy, to be part of the community feeling of its people and feel its presence in the streets and to appreciate the traditions and these handcrafted costumes that cross generations.
It is also important to mention that, despite the (well deserved) media coverage of Caretos de Podence, this tradition is not limited to this Trás-os-Montes land or this time of year, given that, a little further south, in Lazarim (municipality of Lamego, Viseu district) it can also participate in a traditional carnival with caretos taking to the streets in typical costumes reminiscent of the “horned devil”.
Or, if you want to wait until the end of the year, you can follow these emblematic caretos through the lands of Torre Dona Chama (municipality of Mirandela, Bragança district), Bemposta (municipality of Mogadouro, Bragança district) and Ousilhão (municipality of Vinhais, Bragança district) celebrating the ancient winter festivals, around the time of the winter solstice, close to of Christmas and the first days of the New Year.
Googlemaps location of Podence villages: https://maps.app.goo.gl/rqi8gauFLzgNWwWM8,
Torre Dona Chama: https://maps.app.goo.gl/urwf9Yi2BkGArRfN6,
Bemposta: https://maps.app.goo.gl/ryRPTRSrWy1iZN33A,
Ousilhão: https://maps.app.goo.gl/vyJE9h2QRaFqw1Uo8.
[Note in diary: approx. 20/Feb to 20/Mar]
A little after this year's carnival period, we will enter the almond blossom season - late February and early March - which will flood the Trás-os-Montes valleys with beautiful soft colors in shades of white and pink.
Legend has it that almond trees appeared in Portugal, in the Algarve (or Al Garb), by the hand of a young king, at the time of its occupation by the Moors. The latter, to please his Nordic princess who missed the snow of her home country, ordered fields of almond trees to be cultivated which, when they bloom, resemble a snowy landscape.
Legends aside, it is certain that this tree has progressed and resisted over the centuries, having permanently established itself in our country, adapting to the micro climate of regions such as "Trás-os-Montes and Alto Douro" and the Algarve. In these regions, almond tree cultivation assumed such preponderance that several localities with names that derive from the word “almond” are still recognized today. In the north of Portugal, these cultures were the reason for evenings between neighbors - the “almond parties” - when they got together to break almonds while socializing, singing and telling stories and riddles.
In recent years, almond groves have acquired a new lease of life, with an increase in the number of mountain slopes dominated by this tree. These landscapes justify pilgrimages and walks to the regions of "Vila Nova de Foz Côa" and "Torre de Moncorvo", which feature almond groves as far as the eye can see and host various festivities and events celebrating this rich and versatile fruit with such a beautiful flower.
Googlemaps location of Vila Nova de Foz Côa: https://maps.app.goo.gl/etkhCM5wJGutR1Rb8
Googlemaps location of Torre de Moncorvo: https://maps.app.goo.gl/gDnRMjC1e3QV4FW87
[Note in your diary: March 1st to 10th]
With a much more recent history but with great tradition in the city of Porto, the Porto International Fantastic Cinema Festival – FantasPorto - is one of the largest film festivals in Portugal, with 43 editions.
“Fantas”, as it is affectionately called by those who know it well, was created and continues to be organized by Mário Dorminsky and Beatriz Pacheco Pereira. This is a film festival that focuses on the fantastic genre and its programs include short and feature films, with productions from various corners of the world.
Its programming for this year's edition is organized as follows: Official Fantastic Cinema Section (feature and short films), Official Section Directors' Week, Official Orient Express Section, Official Portuguese Cinema Section (including Film Schools and Out-of-Competition Films ), Retrospectives (Karim Ouelhaj, Manga to Live Image, Focus Kazakhstan, Visions of Hungarian Cinema) and Fantas Classic.
This year's edition - the 44th - takes place between the 1st and 10th of March, with Batalha Centro de Cinema hosting all of its programming.
This is a good opportunity for all (old and new) film lovers to be active participants in one of the biggest film festivals in the country, in addition to being able to check out the conditions provided by Batalha Centro de Cinema, after its (re)opening doors in December 2022 (having already hosted the 2023 edition of Fantasporto).
You can check the entire program here: https://fantasporto.com/
Location on googlemaps of Batalha Centro de Cinema: https://maps.app.goo.gl/PaR66CsVNhQ9iFmg9
These are just a few suggestions for the coming months of what winter in Portugal has to offer us, mixing culture, nature and tradition. You just have to make yourself available and explore. And don't forget to share with us what you discover!
Daniela Simões
Editor's Note: Daniela is one of MOURA MARQUES' friends and partners who we regularly invite to collaborate on our articles, blog and newsletter themes.
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