We are entering a time of year that is characterized by a change in the weather, but also in people's state of mind, because they are not at all immune to the nature that surrounds them. Popular wisdom has long ago created a saying that characterizes this period of the year: «Março, marçagão, manhãs de Inverno, tardes de Verão», which may be translated into English as «March, big March, winter mornings, summer afternoons».
The Spring Equinox (20/Mar)
At dawn on the 20th of the month that now begins, Winter gives way to Spring, in a phenomenon known as “equinox”, in which the Sun crosses the plane of the celestial equator. In the etymology of the word “equinox”, we find the literal translation “in equal parts”, which was probably based on the duration of day and night which, at that precise moment, is precisely equal to 12 hours.
In the northern hemisphere, this event takes place in March and is called “Spring Equinox”. In spring, milder temperatures arrive and the awakening of plants and flowers, with soft or bright colors. There is also the return of migratory birds, such as storks and swallows, which soon resume work on building nests, which are true works of art.
The arrival of Spring appears in rituals and celebrations as it represents, historically and figuratively, the rebirth of nature, fertility and abundance, as opposed to the season that is now ending, of scarcity and discomfort.
Throughout Europe, at this time of year, ancient people practiced pagan rituals and celebrations called “Ostara” where, through the symbolism of fire and bonfires, eggs and hares, they celebrated and extolled the return of the sun and the rebirth of nature, transformation and new lives, fertility and multiplicity.
The Holly Week (24/Mar to 31/Mar) and Easter Sunday (31/Mar)
It is also at this time of year that Easter is celebrated, a religious holiday that acquires particular importance in Portugal due to its tradition and culture of Christian heritage.
This is a movable day on our calendar. Since the Council of Nicaea, this day has always been celebrated on the first Sunday after the first full moon that occurs after the Spring (if in the Northern Hemisphere) or Autumn (if in the Southern Hemisphere) equinox. This year Easter Sunday takes place on March 31st.
Holy Week begins 7 days before Easter Sunday, that is, with Palm Day.
And 40 days before the beginning of Holy Week, Carnival takes place (by consequence, always on a Tuesday).
This period of 40 days after Carnival is known as “Lent”, which is associated with a time of fasting, recollection, abstinence and sacrifice.
As a counterpoint to this period, Easter and, especially, Easter Sunday, represent and invoke the celebration of life.
In Portugal there are several traditions linked to this day, but also to the days that precede it, with rituals that symbolize the last days, the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ.
Holy Week in the city of Braga, one of the most famous Easter festivals, which lasts for several days, leaves the city decorated to perfection.
During the week leading up to Easter Sunday, several representations of biblical moments take place, such as the “Last Supper” and the “Washing of Feet”, in addition to the “Way of the Cross” and Palm Sunday processions.
[Location of Braga via googlemaps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/HTZvxctV5eUwAHeG9]
Pascal Visit (31/Mar or 01/Apr or 07/Apr)
On Easter Sunday, in any city or town in Portugal, we can see and follow the Pascal walk and visits ("Compasso Pascal" in Portuguese), a tradition that dates back more than 500 years.
The term “compass” in the sense of “Easter or Pascal Visit” has its origin in the Latin expression “Crux cum passo Domino”, which means “Cross on which the Lord suffered”, taking its abbreviated form .
The priest (or someone delegated by him) and the butlers who accompany him (members of the community), visit each house that so desires, blesses the home and everyone who lives there and offers the crucifix (an artifact symbolizing the cross on which Jesus Christ was crucified) to be kissed by those present.
The Pascal Visit (or "Compass") usually takes place during Easter Sunday, but it can also take place on the following Monday or Sunday, the so-called "Little Easter Sunday" ("Pascoela" in Portuguese), if this proves necessary and appropriate in the community.
Here I recommend a sui generis tradition: the crossing of the "Rio Homem" (translation: "Man River"), in the parish of Fiscal, municipality of Amares.
Here, despite the existence, for several decades, of a bridge connecting the banks, the tradition of taking the boat to the other bank continues, where there will be around two dozen houses. The cross, the parish priest, the butlers and a music band follow the boats.
[location of Fiscal via googlemaps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/QDo7GRH2Ah93UPhf6]
The Burning of Judas (30/mar)
On Hallelujah Saturday, which precedes Easter Sunday, pagan and Christian celebrations merge in an event that takes place in various parts of the country, called “Queima do Judas”.
Here we recommend two of these locations: Vila do Conde (municipality 30 km north of Porto) and Travassô (parish in the municipality of Águeda, in the center of the country).
[location of Vila do Conde via googlemaps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Knwoyb9VTDuFeZas9]
[Location of Travassô via googlemaps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/U5zqhrfQ3ubZjNJm9]
In these celebrations we can witness the staging of the atonement of evils and purification of the soul through fire, with satirical and pyrotechnic shows where, in the end, “Judas Iscariot”, the character who betrayed Jesus Christ, is burned in the Christian narrative, thus mixing cultures and customs that survive the times.
Season's gastronomy
On Easter days, it is not uncommon to see neighbors moving from house to house to share the blessing and, later, share food and drinks from the tables specially filled for that purpose.
As with all celebrations in Portugal, food is always present with delicacies typical of each region of the country.
I don't want to run the risk of listing all the options (I wouldn't be able to either), but the oven-roasted goat or lamb, the sweet (central region) or savory (northern region) special bread ("folares" in Portuguese), the chocolate eggs and the thousand almond options... they are part of any Easter table in Portugal.
The March Fair (23/Mar to 25/Apr)
Another suggestion for a getaway, very close by, in Aveiro. The March Fair is held annually in this city, which this year takes place between March 23rd and April 25th.
Currently, this fair serves as a temporary amusement park and a commercial display of what is being done in the region.
But the March Fair is recorded as having started in 1434, the year in which royal authorization was given to hold the first free fair (that is, a fair where traders did not pay taxes) and, from then on, it began to be held is held annually, in the month of March.
It acquired so much success and dynamics that it has survived to this day, becoming a reference fair in the region, at a cultural, entertainment and commercial level.
[location of the March Fair in Aveiro via googlemaps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/5DbPQyk1XiqNtngE6]
I hope you can enjoy everything that the month of March can offer us. You just have to make yourself available and discover these suggestions... and many others. And don't forget to share with us what you discover!
Daniela Simões
Editor's Note: Daniela is one of MOURA MARQUES' friends and partners who we regularly invite to collaborate on our articles and blog and newsletter themes.
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